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婺源糊菜意殷殷

婺源糊菜意殷殷

发布时间:2013-09-04 00:00:00  作者:方跃明  来源:本站原创  点击数:载入中…
    婺源糊菜的“糊”字,按照婺源地方口音,是念去声(hù)的。和“户口”的“户”字读音相同,作动词用。婺源糊菜按照选用的品种不同,可分为荤糊和素糊两大类。其中,荤糊品种较少,目前主要分糊猪肺和糊大肠两种,而素糊则品类较多,有糊豆腐、糊南瓜、糊冬瓜、糊萝卜等等,几乎囊括了所有的蔬菜,到了“无蔬不能糊”的地步。
    婺源菜讲究在“用油、颜色和火功”上下功夫。婺源的糊菜,当然也不列外,每一道糊菜不但注重“色、香、味、形”,还注重“(口)感、(滋)养、(招)牌、(烹)器”四个字的精烹细选。糊豆腐,这道菜,选料容易,操作简单,而且烹制所需时间也不长。糊豆腐虽然在原料的添加上或有所不同,但在具体的方法上,却是一样的:先准备嫩豆腐500克,肉蓉150克,笋干100克,大米粉100克,菊花菜250克,虾皮0.4克,生粉、香菇、酱油、味精、姜末等少许。然后将豆腐切成细丁,笋干、香菇、菊花菜切碎备用。再将豆腐丁下锅煮透后放盐,再把肉蓉和大米粉投入调成稀糊状,然后笋干丁、香菇丁和菊花菜下锅。三五分钟,放入姜末、味精和食油等佐料调匀后出锅。装盘后再撒放一点香麻油、葱花、胡椒粉。这样,一盘香鲜可口的糊豆腐就已做好??梢匀檬晨兔且槐タ诟A?。
    豆腐,由于同时具有动物性蛋白质和植物性两种蛋白质,以及“细、白、鲜、嫩”的不二特点。据说,历史上唐宋八大家之一的北宋大文豪苏东坡,极喜食豆腐。他在湖北黄州为官时,经常亲自做豆腐,并精心烹制,用味醇色美的豆腐菜来招待亲朋好友。他还曾经写过一首有关豆腐的《蜜酒歌》:脯青苔,炙青莆,烂蒸鹅鸭乃匏壶,煮豆作乳脂为酥,高烧油烛斟蜜酒。诗中的“酥”,便是豆腐。无独有偶,号称明朝景泰十才子之一的苏平,也曾写下一首脍炙人口的《豆腐》诗:传得淮南术最佳,皮肤退尽见精华。旋转磨上流琼液,煮月铛中滚雪花。瓦罐浸来蟾有影,金刀剖破玉无瑕。个中滋味谁知得,多在僧家与道家。他在诗中,把磨豆、煮浆、凝聚、压制成品等一套豆腐制作工艺,都作为了栩栩如生的描写,同时还指出知晓其中滋味者,多是道士和僧人。清代胡济苍的“信知磨砺出精神,宵旰勤劳泄我真。最是清廉方正客,一生知己属贫人”诗。不但写了豆腐的软嫩味美,而且写出了豆腐的精神,由磨砺而出,方正清廉,不流于世俗,赞美其风格高尚。尤其是结尾两句,更表达了诗人对清正廉洁的赞美,对安贫乐道儒学思想动的推崇。
    文人、出家人爱豆腐,身居大山深处的婺源人,也钟情豆腐。婺源名贤文公朱子在《东溪胜侯列传》序中,就曾留下的这样的字句:“婺源为县穷僻,斗入崇山峻岭间,而百年来,异材间出……”。山多田少,种不出太多的水稻、小麦,却可以种出许许多多的黄豆来。因此,磨黄豆,吃豆腐,也是婺源人中的一个重要生活内容。婺源历史上走出那么多文人仕宦,名商巨贾,大部分也是靠吃豆腐而成长起来的。因此,在婺源,不但有与外地大同小异的水煮豆腐、红烧豆腐、油煎豆腐等,更有广受世人喜好的“糊豆腐”。在婺源,糊豆腐也是具有神秘色彩和崇高地位的一种饮食用品。无论哪一家举办红白喜事,宴席上的第一道美味,就是糊豆腐。而在婺源的中云、赋春、许村、镇头、甲路一带,大年三十的那天中午,家家户户都要吃上一碗糊豆腐。以示当年的剩菜残羹已经一扫而光,消灭殆尽。以方便在大年三十晚上能烧出更多更好的菜肴,最终达到“三十夜,吃不绝,初一朝,吃不消”的吃的最高境界。
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